Monday, November 24, 2014

City Views, Country Dreams

Good afternoon from New York.

I do believe that you all have guessed which country I have been visiting.  Yes, the photograph I gave you as a hint, a big hint, was taken in Lewes, in Sussex.

Most of my holiday was spent in London, where I tried to keep a balance between getting out to see lots of places and people, and also trying to have a relaxing time.

However, the day on which I attended the Country Living Magazine's Christmas Fair was quite a full day.



I arrived at Fair's Islington location not long after the doors opened for the day and found that a crowd was already assembling.  the noise level was high.  Lots of female CL fans seemed to be filled with excitement.


Just inside the entrance to the large, multi-tiered exhibition area, we were greeted by great whiffs of cinnamon and oranges that had been used to decorate a large sleigh carrying Santa.



Even the reindeer were covered in a potpourri mix.  I pressed on with my plan to do a systematic tour of the entire Fair, and make a few notes in my Fair brochure of any particular exhibitors whose stands I wished to re-visit.


I found that my experience dealing with New York City crowds served me well on my tour.  Years and years ago, I attended some of the magazine's first Spring Fairs, and very much enjoyed the opportunity to meet many famed craft makers and designers.

Decades later, it seemed to me that there was less to interest me at the Christmas Fair.  However, I did connect with a very talented lady, Halinka, who makes intricate figures that she calls halinka's fairies.  They are exceptional, and may currently be seen in many of Harrod's Christmas windows.



If any of you all plan to be in London before Christmas, I do recommend your having a look at these windows.


My photographs do not do these tableaux justice.


I could not resist taking one of Halinka's tiny ballet dancing hares home with me.  His pose was based upon a photograph of Nureyev.  Halinka told me that she began making these little figures to help fund her daughter's balled studies.


I did not stay too long at the Fair, and was glad to have the chance for a quick stop at the marvelous yarn shop, Loop, where I bought a few skeins of Jamieson's subtly colored Shetland wool.

Loop is a place that encourages knitters to share ideas and enthusiasm.


On another morning I traveled via the Tube down to Tate Britain to see the Late Turner exhibit.  I have seen many, many Turner exhibits at the Tate, and was curious to see what this exhibit might add to my appreciation of Mr Turner.


As is often the case for me, my favorite parts of the exhibit were the watercolors and sketchbook pages on display.  There were quite a few paintings in the exhibit that I didn't think were really Late Turner, but more like Late Middle Turner.  Nonetheless, I did enjoy the show and was glad that it was not as crowded at the CL Fair had been.

I am also looking forward to seeing Mike Leigh's movie Mr. Turner.

From the Tate I headed up to the Hackney Road to visit Barn the Spoon and his tiny shop.

I walked to the shop from Liverpool Station and along the way saw increased evidence of changes coming to this area.


Some of the route shows quite a bit of gentrification, while other parts are resisting this transformation.


I enjoyed having a catch up chat with Barn about how his spoon carving and workshop endeavors are flourishing.  I could not resist bringing home another of his creations.



Isn't this cherry wood spoon beautiful?


I do hope that your eyes are not getting tired.  There are many more photographs to come.  Perhaps you might wish to make a cup of tea.

The next photographs I will share with you were taken on my Saturday trip down to Lewes in Sussex.


I left from Victoria Station anticipating a journey of just over an hour, but a surprise awaited me.


Before anyone had come through the carriage to collect tickets, I heard an announcement that passengers wishing to travel to a selection of destinations, including Lewes, would be required to de-train at a station called Three Bridges (near Gatwick Airport) and continue their journey on a shuttle bus.


And so we did.  The little red double decker bus's driver selected a series of winding country roads to take us first to Haywood Heath, and then on to Lewes.  It took quite a while, but the scenery was wonderful.  My Country Dreams came alive.

Finally, we did reach Lewes and I started my climb up the hill from the station to the cobble stones of the High Street and other interesting sights.  I was glad to be wearing my comfy Doc Martin oxfords.


Since getting home to New York, I have yet to check the site on the above notice.  I wonder how many older folks like me could manage the many steep hills of Lewes.


I took many photographs to record the fabulous cloud formations over the town.  I was caught up in the spirit of Constable.

Lots of poppy wreathes and other memorial messages surrounded this statue.


The vistas were remarkable.


Lots and lots of very old buildings.


Wow.


And wow again.


The angle of the midday sun kept one side of this street in shadow, while the other side caught the light.


On my way up to the Castle, I found this solitary rose.


I am very unused to this sort of natural splendour.


Tiny green sprigs are also beautiful.


This view, with handy bench, was near the Castle.  Seems very Constable to my eye.


And also near the Bowling Green.


More contrast of sun and shadow.


There is nothing like this in my New York neighborhood.


Or this.  Historic figure Thomas Paine is said to have lived here for a while.




As I was not sure how long my return trip to London might take, I decided not to stop for lunch in Lewes but rather to return to the train station to find out what the return journey would be like.

A motorway-suitable bus had been deputized, and so the trip to Three Bridges was much more speedy than the one on the red double decker.  I was back to London fairly quickly and found myself back on the Tube.

I am always fascinated by the Tube advertising that are on the actual curved walls by the tracks.  We don't have that in our NYC subways.  I loved this poster and think that its designer might be a Lowry fan.


Another exhibit that I enjoyed was the Kiefer show at the Royal Academy.  Large vitrines with strange floating ships were installed in the courtyard.


On Sunday morning the exhibit inside the RA was not at all crowded which was bonus for those of us wanting to take our time in viewing all on display.  This was very different from my viewing experience at the Hockney show.



This was the view from my hotel room.  A lovely city view.


I really love the Victoria & Albert Museum and am happy to be a member.  I was also very happy on this trip to meet two grand blog pals of mine, Celia and Gina, so that we could see the Constable exhibit together and also continue our conversation over lunch.


I had not previously met Gina in person, but as I expected, it was as if we had known each other for years.  Have a look at this beautiful rosy textile brooch that she made for me!


It was grand to see Celia again, and a treat to discover that she was giving me a set of her newest Christmas card designs, plus a set of covered buttons, employing Liberty Tana Lawn in a fabric designed by Grayson Perry.


It was so much fun having a day in a beautiful place with these two very creative ladies.  I am already looking forward to the next visit.


This is a city view from Bermondsey Street, where I had traveled to see yet another interesting exhibit.  Old and new meet in the frame.


The Fashion and Textile Museum is a small museum that is definitely worth visiting if fashion or textiles are amongst your interests.

I also liked this opportunity to see another part of London.





From Bermondsey, I hopped back on the Tube at London Bridge and headed up to Bethnal Green and the delights of my favorite East End restaurant, E. Pellicci.

It was a Tuesday, the day of the week that the marvelous chef Maria Pellicci makes her famous meatballs.  I cannot tell you just how delicious these are, very light and perfectly seasoned.

I also cannot tell you what fun it was to renew acquantances with the legendary Juke Box Jimmy.


I have had the pleasure of sharing a table with Jimmy on several other occasions and comparing our appreciation for very fine rock and roll music.

On this most recent visit, Jimmy was wearing a badge given him at the BBC studios just that morning when he and Nevio Pellicci had been interviewed about the old and new East End and a bit of music, too.  

I think that I surprised Jimmy by letting him know that I recently had my nomination of Smokey Robinson's You've Really Got a Hold On Me accepted on to Dotun Adebayo's BBC Radio's Virtual Juke Box.  We are birds of a feather.

Pellicci's is an institution that I heartily recommend to you all.  You'll be welcomed by beautiful Anna who'll make you feel at home immediately.


Tony and Nevio Pellicci.  You can see a marvelous interview with Nevio in the restaurant, if you click here.


I wish that I could visit Pellicci's every week!  

Bethnal Green Road intersects with Brick Lane and Brick Lane intersects with Hanbury Street where there is a ever-changing display of graffiti artists.


I always want to see what is new on Hanbury Street.


Another very different street that I like to check out when in London is Kinnerton Street, with its pretty and posh mews houses and shops.



And lovely window boxes.



Towards the Knightsbridge end of Kinnerton Street you will come upon the bijoux Patricia Roberts yarn shop.  It was not yet open on the day I walked past, and so I did save myself some money.


Looking through the window bars at the new designs on display, I smiled to see the following cardigan.


It is made from the very same pattern at my own jumper shown in the following photo.  I knit this one way back in the late 1980's from Shetland wool purchased from Patricia Roberts.  It has a multitude of stitches and textures and six of the squares in the design's grid spell out my last name, Oakley. in all caps, of course.


On my last full day in London I had two special arrangements.  At midday I met fellow blogger Lucille for the first time.  I knew we would get along well, and we did.  Lunch and an exhibit at the V & A, intermingled with lots and lots of chatting.  Lucille, it was grand meeting you and I look forward to seeing you on my next London jaunt.

On my last London evening, I had the pleasure to attend The Gentle Author's book event at Waterstones Piccadilly.  It was fun to be able to have a bit of a chat with TGA before and after he presented his magic lantern show of photographs from his latest publication, Spitalfields Nippers.  Please do take a look at this book.  The photographs are rare and beautiful and educational records of young folks who lived in Spitalfields quite a few years ago.  And yet each photograph truly invites to to learn a bit more about the children in the pictures what what their lives were like.


And so I do believe that I have come to end of my vacation post.  My flight from Heathrow to JFK was comfortable and safe and on time.

Since returning home, I am holding my memories of this trip tightly.  Although the New York City atmosphere is calling to me, I am trying to rejoin this city's different pace gradually.

Thank you all as always for visiting here and leaving such kind comments.

69 comments:

  1. What a delightful trip you had! I just returned home from a trip also and when I opened my computer I noticed your new post. Your pictures are lovely and shows what a great time you had - so diversified too. You did pack a lot of events during your stay to keep in your memory. Thanks for this enchanting post.

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    1. Vagabonde, yes, much was seen and experienced during my UK days. Can you imagine that on some days I really didn't even take a single photo. Guess that was part of the relaxation.

      Promise to get over to your place very soon! xo

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  2. Hello, Frances! It's after midnight and I am speechless after reading this long interesting post, telling us about your intense and delightful stay in England! So many places, exhibits, lovely buildings and nature to see...
    You feel very comfortable in London and Lewes, that's for sure! It must have been very exciting to re-visit places and meet people who are dear to you!
    Thanks for sharing your strongest memories of the trip with us!:)x

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    1. Rossichka, I so appreciate your comment. I do love visiting the UK...have already started dreaming about next year.

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  3. How wonderful! Thank you so much for sharing this trip here, your photos are lovely!

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    1. Thank you, Linda. Now that I am back home I am wishing that I'd taken even more photographs. All the same, I do have lots of images in my memory.

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  4. Hi Frances! What a lot you packed into your trip! I'm pleased you fitted in a trip to Sussex - we put on these magical bus tours just for random tourists to enjoy ;-)
    It was great that you had time to spend a day with Gina and me at the V&A, it was a lovely inspiring day.
    Celia xx

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    1. Celia, it really was a grand holiday, and I loved my ride on that little red bus.

      Of course seeing friends like you was the best part of all! xo

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  5. Hi Frances! What a interesting and lovely post! London is my favourite city...I´ve been there a couple of times and I love it! I´m sitting here with a nice cup of coffee and enjoying your trip. Yes, I want to see more pictures!
    Have a happy week,
    Titti

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    1. Titti, I now wish that I'd taken more photos, but will have to be content with the images rolling around in my head.

      Wouldn't it be fun if some year we were both visiting London at the same time and could meet for tea, or go to Kew Gardens or...well, so many choices. xo

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  6. You put us all to shame, Frances, with the energy and breadth of your enthusiasm.

    I'm glad you enjoyed your time in the UK, and am clicking on Spotify now to play 'You've Really Got a Hold On Me' in your honour.

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    1. Mise, there is something about the pace and mix of London that encourages my energy. Having the possibility of getting out to see some countryside too is another treat.

      Isn't that tune a great one? xo

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  7. Reading this post Frances it feels as though I spent the entire week with you. What a lot you packed in to just one week and I fee honoured that you chose to spend some of that time with me. It was such a super day out with you and Celia and I very much look forward to the next time. I see what you meant about your little dancing hare - he's gorgeous!

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    1. Thank you, Gina. As I was typing this post yesterday afternoon and uploading the photographs, I had a lovely time remembering splendid days. I love thinking of the V & A as our clubhouse!

      And I'm glad that you agree with me about Halinka's creations. Really something special.

      I've got my flower brooch pinned to my black pea coat and think that it looks very jolly while reminding me of meeting you.

      xo

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  8. What a wonderful trip you had! And thank you for sharing it with us. I love England, but much of London is new to me, and I enjoyed your introduction to it all. I'd also like to wish you a very happy Thanksgiving. xoxox

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    1. I'm so glad that you enjoyed my travel journal. It's great fun for me to share places and experiences that are special to me.

      Thank you also for the Thanksgiving wishes. Depending on just how the weather swings on Thursday, I may head out early to take some of my annual Parade photographs. If it's rainy or really cold...I might elect to stay cosy at home.

      xo

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  9. Lovely trip! Thank you for the tips, I will be in London pre-Xmas , just to enjoy the atmosphere, Xmas lights and do a little bit of shopping, so your tips may come in handy!

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    1. Oh Phyllis, thank you for your thank you. I wish I could have another London trip before Christmas. I didn't take any photographs of the lights, but definitely saw then over Regent Street, Carnaby Street, Bond Street, Kings Road et al.

      Brilliant, ha ha.

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  10. I'm so used to being out in the country that I find visiting London a complete trial! I've got slightly better at it having to attend committee meeting of the Romantic Novelists' Association over the last couple of years but I still fret about getting lost! I learn so much more from your posts and photographs, though, that I don't feel bad about preferring to stay in my rural retreat - I'll sit here and enjoy your views! It's good to read that you had such a wonderful time. Cx

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    1. Oh thank you for that comliment, Chris. I think that it would be fun some day to actually meet you in London...at the train station of your arrival, and have a walk around together, at our own pace.

      If we were to have lunch at Pellicci's, you would find much material for future novels. I promise you.

      xo

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  11. How lovely Frances, and you have visited so many of my old and current haunts, places with so many and varied memories for me. So glad you had a wonderful holiday and thank you for sharing the photos. It's good to see these places through your eyes and take a fresh look.

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    1. Marianne, thank you for visiting and commenting. Please do let me know more about your old and current haunts.

      xo

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  12. How nice it is to be able to put a voice to your words now.
    Because we met at the end of your visit I gleaned a little of what you had done but this post leaves me slightly in awe of your energy and adventurousness. You have shown me parts of London I've never even thought of visiting and I'm a native!

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    1. Lucille, just think of all the spots where we might meet up on my next trip.

      My first trip to London was way back in the mid-1970s, so I have seen quite a few changes in that fabulous city over the decades...even over the centuries, now. What a thought! xo

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  13. Wow - what a lot you packed into your visit! I'm really glad you enjoyed yourself so much and got to see so many lovely places and things :-)

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    1. Thanks Su. Maybe we can meet up on my next trip. I am sure that you would be able to show me lots of places for the first time.

      xo

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  14. Fabulous post!
    wish I could have been there with you!
    More in an email!

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    1. Oh, Elizabeth, my trip was really fun, but by the end of the trip, I really was longing to be able to stay just a little bit longer.

      See you soon. xo

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  15. Hello and thank you for this fabulous post. I found you, through Mise at Pretty West and I am your newest follower.
    Looking forward to future visits and stop by and say hi

    Helen

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    1. Helen, thank you so much for joining up hereabouts. I'm still in post-holiday recovery mode, combined with get-ready-for-Christmas mode, so it may take me a while to post another blog.

      Meanwhile, I do look forward to visiting you and getting better acquainted.

      Cheers!

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  16. Blimey what an adventure! Wonderful to read all about it.

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    1. Oh, how I do love the sound of Blimey! Yes, I had a very fine holiday, and now wish that I could bend time to allow me to have longer time in the UK while still being able to keep the fires burning over here.

      Maybe next year.

      Thank you for following! xo

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  17. What a great post! Lovely to see a city I know very well through your eyes and also Lewes, which I have never visited. Funny to see the connections between us! I love the V & A too. I used to live in Bethnal Green. I envy your meeting with Celia. Hope you have a lovely time planning your next trip and hope so very much you can come up here to North Wales. Every picture you take sings to me about how much you would love it up here! Thanks for taking me back down to London - funny that you do it so compellingly from miles across the ocean!

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    1. Thank you so much for this comment, Elizabeth. I think that you've got your own recent post that I have yet to visit. Promise to click over there soon.

      How interesting to learn about some more connections between us. Do believe me that I can hear the call of North Wales!

      I know that you would enjoy getting to know Celia. I count myself fortunate to have met up with her on each of my recent UK visits.

      Returning home to NYC, I am still trying to sort out some day to day stuff, while trying to hold on to the energy that my holiday gave me.

      Elizabeth, I see 2015 as one of those change-making years for me, and do want to keep in touch with you. I know that you know quite a bit about change-making.

      xo

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  18. What a wonderful trip! Your pictures in Lewes are gorgeous -- such skies! Thank you for sharing all your finds.

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    1. Thank you Vicki. I had a marvelous time sampling so many differing aspects of a part of the world I do love to visit.

      xo

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  19. Hello Frances,
    just back from a day-trip to Canterbury leaving 5h in the morning and back at midnight to get the 'British quick fix'. I am almost overwhelmed of all you have seen and experienced and been inspired with. Have been to Lewes but would be scared nowadays to go to London, too much good country live experience I fear. But so so beautiful to see it through your eyes :-). Very very nice pictures and impressions. Now I wonder if you are not going to plan the same as us:moving to the UK for good. I shall wait and see who of us is going to realize this very dream first. Because every visit to the Island whispers the same: 'more - more - more...'

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    1. Bayou, I almost took a side trip to Canterbury myself, before deciding of the hills of Lewes.

      Maybe some day we could visit London at the same time...I could be your "protector." What you write about the desire to spend more and more time in the UK rings so very true to me.

      Let's continue to compare notes. xo

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  20. Wow! That sounds like it was a pretty exhausting trip! I love your dancing hare :)

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    1. Thank you so much for your visit. Let me reassure you that my holiday was actually very relaxing.

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  21. Blymey Frances, what a lot of treats. I am going to have to visit this post again to take it all in. x

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    1. Valerie, this post does cover a wide variety of sights and experiences. Fun to spread my wings on holiday!

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  22. As always a fabulous blog. Love the pics. One day..................................................Dublin!

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    1. Thank you, dear Irish Eyes. Yes, Dublin will eventually enter into my life. xo

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  23. What a wonderful trip you had, Frances! You fitted in so much! A very absorbing post, which it think I might have to read all over again!
    Happy weekend.
    Helen xox

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    1. Helen, I always wish that I could stay longer in such a wonderful place. Even though I did fit in quite a bit, I also found time for quite a bit of day dreaming.

      xo

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  24. Welcome back Frances! Lucky you to have visited England. It's such a beautiful country. I love going there! I was near Lewes this summer and drove through the town. I see I should have stopped for tea and take a walk :-)

    I have always wanted to go to the CL fair and enjoyed your photographs very much. It looks very crowded indeed! Glad you found some interesting artists.

    Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving! Enjoy your weekend!

    Madelief x

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    1. Thanks so much for your comment, Madelief. I do think that you'd enjoy a walk around (and up and down) all those sloping cobblestoned roads and lanes.

      xo

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  25. How lovely to visit with you courtesy of your lovely photographs. Perhaps you will venture further up country on another trip Frances and I can introduce you to some more northerly delights.

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    1. Annie, thank you very much for your kind words about my photographs. (I think that it's the subject matter that is lovely.)

      It's so odd that although I've been to the UK many times, there are still quite large areas that I've never quite had the time to visit. Yes, perhaps next year I can venture up country. It would be a joy to meet you.

      xo

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  26. My goodness. What an extraordinary venture. So many places. So many sights. So many stories. Thanks for sharing them, Frances.

    Blessings and Bear hugs!

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    1. Bear, I really did have a splendid holiday. Actually did much more than is in this post, but didn't always take pictures.

      xo

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  27. Goodness gracious me, Frances. You are the perfect London tour guide. I would wish for no one better informed, more enthusiastic and keen.

    You know places that I, in my almost 30 years of living there, have never visited.

    I am glad you enjoyed your trip and I am sure that the people who had the good fortune to meet up with you enjoyed every minute.

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    1. Thank you so much, Friko, for your kind words. I do love exploring London. Of course some of what I used to love visiting while in London has vanished. And so...it's fun to explore some parts that are new to me.

      xo

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  28. Wow! That sounds you had a wonderful trip, Frances!
    Love the pictures! Thanks for sharing!

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    1. Sonia, thank you for your visit and kind words. I had a fabulous holiday with a real mix of people, places and experiences.

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  29. Hi Frances,
    I'm so happy you had such a lovely time in London and on your travels around the UK. There is always so much to see and do - whatever time of year. I'm so looking forward to see the Turner movie - just have not had time yet. Thank you for sharing so many of your holiday pictures.
    Stay well my dear!
    xoxo Ingrid

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    1. Ingrid, I so agree with you about London offering much to us throughout the year.

      I think that the film Mr Turner will open over here around Christmas. I'll be sure to write something of my impressions hereabouts after I see it. I already know of a London friend who's seen it twice!

      xo

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  30. Thanks for sharing your wonderful experience in London. I felt like I was there with you!

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    1. Janice, I first visited London in the mid-1970s and loved it as much as I'd thought I would. Years later, I think I know the place well, but can always find more interesting bits.

      Please do visit again.

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  31. Hi Frances. I live in London & blog about museums, mainly in London. Just loved reading your take on our city. Plus feel inspired to take a trip east to see some street art.

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  32. Katharine, thanks so much for your comment. I wish that I had found the time to visit more of my favorite museums, but was glad to have my first visit to Bernmondsey.

    Best wishes.

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  33. Hello Frances, I see you are once again sharing your amazing sense of adventure and love of life. I have said it before, you certainly make everyday count and have such an enthusiastic and inspiring creative life. This is such an interesting post about your latest holiday break in London. You are an inspiration.
    Thank you for your lovely comment and birthday wishes. We will, we must have that tea and cake and I will look forward to it. I am not spending much time on the computer and missed your exciting news that you were having this holiday.
    A great day out, I visited Lewes with My daughter when I stayed at Brighton. When it comes to London you really are so comfortable and familiar with this big city.
    So glad to hear you are living your dream to travel more. The knitting beautiful as always and lots more new wool for more wonderful projects. A wooden spoon, a dancing mouse and so much more wrapped up in memories.
    Best wishes, take care.x

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  34. Thank you so much, Milly. I will always be grateful to you for encouraging me to begin blogging! It's a grand way to share the pleasures that life presents us.

    xo

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  35. What a treat to read this! Really enjoyed it. I think you have seen more of the UK than I have! Hope you are well and keeping warm. Can't believe it will be six years in January since we met at the Bonnard exhibition and you taught me how to use quarters to ride the buses in NYC and see the sights! X

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    1. Sue, thank you so much for these kind words. You know what...I am very much looking to our next get together, whenever and wherever it takes place.

      Wasn't that Bonnard show amazing? And let's not forget that snow was on the ground, too.

      xo

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  36. dear frances,

    you are SO COOL. i loved traveling around london and parts with you. once again i wished i could have fit in your pocket, to see the sights you saw, i love your perspective. and your very cool sense of adventure. i'm glad you had such a wonderful time visiting with your friends, and in your favorite places (loop again!!) but really, all the galleries, and restaurants, scenic areas, those graffiti streets, it's all really lovely.

    wishing you the merriest holiday season, stay warm there, xoxo lori

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  37. Frances - this is a fantastic travel post. I have been to some of those places but have learned so much. Oh, I wish I could get to London again!
    Kristin Nicholas

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